Saturday, July 10, 2010

One Year in Peace Corps El Salvador!

As of yesterday, I’ve been in El Salvador for an entire year. This has been a year I will cherish for the rest of my life. It’s easy to let the days accumulate into months without really processing what you’re living. This has not been the case in my first year of Peace Corps, I’ve never been so in tune with my mind, my heart, and the emotions that are strung on the lines between those two parts of me. This work has made me understand what I’m made of. It ain’t all pretty, but it’s good to see it all clearly, even if this clarity dissolves into a lingering fog tomorrow. I’ve seen myself with a depth I never would have known, had I not been doing this work, in this place, with these people guiding me. In this past year I’ve felt so incredibly loved, so lost, so found, so supported, scared, brave, angry and strong. I’ve found more people I call family. I’m part of a community for the first time. I mean, yes, I’ve lived in a community my entire life, but I’ve never felt so embraced by a group of people that a year ago didn’t even know my name. It’s really unbelievable.

My English group has grown lately. We are up to about 30 students. I’ve been really impressed with their progress and their level of commitment. Some students wake up at 4:30am to get their housework duties completed in time to finish everything and arrive on time for English class. Club Cheras has recently started to collaborate with a group of older women in the community to form a jewelry workshop. It’s been really exciting to be able to teach the group to make earrings and necklaces, seeing how empowered they feel with their creative abilities that they weren’t aware they had. We will be shipping a few boxes of their creations to the States to sell to help get our workshop on its feet, create a supply base, and pay other local artisans to train us in other jewelry-making techniques. We want to learn more! The older women in the group have been attending a workshop in Dolores, where they’ve been learning how to make jewelry using polished, cut cow horns. Last week, I taught a lesson on Color Theory…(Never thought I’d be teaching that in rural El Salvador!) but the women loved it and found it really interesting. I had them use the color wheel and apply color theory in designing a set of necklace and earrings. They came up with some really awesome designs. I have enjoyed the atmosphere of having Club Cheras open up more to other women in the community.

Construction of the new school continues and is supposed to be done by mid-August. I am really anxious for the school to be ready…I have a lot of projects in mind for the day we finally have a building again and I’m pretty fed up with the construction workers! The rainy season has arrived in full-force, leaving my “classroom” a total mudpit full of wet desks covered in soggy duck poop. Since the rain started, the students have missed a total of about 2 weeks of school due to “rain days” when the streams rise and are too dangerous to traverse. There have been some make-up days scheduled for Saturdays, but that hasn’t seems to be a very effective alternative. Nobody shows up for a Saturday school day. The constant dampness of rainy season has brought mold into my life in a serious way. I was perplexed the first day I noticed a fuzzy gray-green substance on everything from my leather watch to my bras to my shoes. Now, I have accepted that I’ll be at war with mold for the next few months and there’s just not much to do about it except soak everything in bleach and hope for the best. Worse than the mold situation is the lack of dry clothing. I wash my clothes, hang them to dry and it rains every 5 hours. They never dry. If I hang them inside they just grow mold. It’s a problem. In spite of all this, I have to admit, I love the sound of the rain as I fall asleep, swaying peacefully in my hammock. Best feeling in the world. And when I wake up in the morning and it’s been raining all night. The clouds sinks so close to the ground that it’s like waking up in a dream. I can hear the flooded streams roaring like the ocean at high tide. My sister Zulma’s already started the fire to make coffee. The air smells so clean. It’s actually cool enough to sleep with a sheet. Everything is just how it should be.

So my friends, that is the current state of affairs here in El Salvador. I know this next year is going to be even better. I’m looking forward to what’s to come. Thank you to all of you for your support from afar over this past year. You’re love and support has carried me through those hard moments and got me back on track. The packages, the kind words, the project ideas, and good vibes have given me the drive and strength I need. Gracias, please keep ‘em coming! Well, below I’ve jotted down some of my “big moments” of my first year of service. Take a look…..

Proudest moment: When one of my girls in Club Cheras stood up to her cheating, verbally abusive boyfriend of two years for the first time after we had a serious discussion about self-respect. Go girl!

Biggest Mistake: Taking on a massive soccer tournament event without the additional support I needed.

Biggest Success: Being an awesome English teacher! And finding so many wonderful friends!

Scariest Moment: Tie between being threatened in San Salvador by a man with a hook for a hand and seeing dead bodies in the back of pick-ups after the landslides in San Vicente

Greatest Challenge: Machismo…getting hissed at, hearing smacking kissing sounds from construction workers on the way to school. Peace Corps says ignore it. I say, easier said than done for strong American women who refuse to be oppressed and objectified. I may have lost it a few times with Salvadoran men. Ok maybe more than a few times.
Hardest Laughing: With my Peace Corps family, Eric and Sarah whenever we are together.

Most Embarrassing Moment: Singing Poker Face in front of 250 Salvadorans for Dia del Alumno

Favorite taste: Tie between Mango and Reyna’s cheese and lorroco pupusas…best in the world!

Favorite smell: Fallen mangoes starting to rot in the grove; something like the smell of fall in Pennsylvania

Favorite sound: the roar of flooded streams near my house….almost whitewater!

Favorite evening activity: Reading El Arbol Generoso (The Giving Tree) with my 4-year old sister Estefany for the millionth time

Biggest Lesson Learned: You have no idea what you´re capable of until you just do it.

5 comments:

  1. Bean,
    What a wonderful update. So beautifully written, such beautiful thoughts and realizations.
    Once again, it all made me teary. Big surprise there.
    I am so excited and happy for you .... you are more in touch with yourself, I think, than many of us achieve in a lifetime. You go girl.
    Had dinner with your Dad on Thursday night. We talked a mile a minute and laughed about 80 percent of the time. I think he had just talked to you on the phone, so he was able to fill me in a bit on your life one year into your experience.
    Jules and Lar are at Konokwee, going into their second week.
    Their new "sitter," Erica, is a neat person and is doing a good job. But no one will ever be like you, Kal.
    The kids want to know if you'll come back and be with them next summer.
    I think they'll still be asking that when you're 30.
    Love you so much and I'm so proud of you.
    Aunt Jane

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  2. Kali,
    I can't believe its already been that long. I am hoping to see you sometime soon or I am going to come down there to visit. :-) I miss you tons and it sounds as if you are loving your stay down there; I just hope you come back and not stay. Hope to chat soon!

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  3. Kali,
    I totally enjoyed reading about your past year. You are truly an amazing person and should be extremely proud of your accomplishments. Congrats on all your first year achievements and I hope your second year is as wonderful, memorable and exciting as the first. Looking forward to reading more....Love Aunt Deb

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  4. Hola Kali,
    I can remember us sitting on my front porch just like it was yesterday. I can't believe that you have been there for un año! Parece mentira.
    I loved reading about your year! Increíble!
    I just got back from a bike trip with your mum and WOW women. We had a blast! I'll send some photos.
    May you next year be a successful as this one! Hasta pronto, Barb

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  5. kali,,,i love your blog,,,,,really like the jewelry workshop,,and your new haircut,,,by the way gene is fine,,i am bringing her to a wedding tonight,,,your friend,,geneva mike

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